Acne Treatments Guide - Articles

Reports by various skin researchers strongly suggest that long term use of AHAs yield results similar to chemical peels. The key to skin regeneration is a procedure where (1) the skin is irritated or softly damaged by exfoliating agents (alpha hydroxy acids, retinoic acid, beta-hydroxy acids, or mildly burned by laser re-surfacing). This is followed by (2) a natural rebuilding of the skin that removes imperfections, rebuilds collagen and elastin fibers that tighten the skin, and increase the amount of glycosaminoglycans. The stronger the exfoliation or skin harm, the stronger is the rebuilding action. Unfortunately, strong exfoliation makes strong skin irritation with itching, burning, and pain.

Safety of Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Cautions

AHAs increase sun sensitivity by 13% on average but in some persons by as much as 50%. For a 50% elevation in sun sensitivity, a hydroxy acid mixed with a solar protection factor of 2 would neutralize the extra sun sensitivity. AHAs with concentrations of 20% or higher are skin peels and should be applied by a specialist or expert cosmetologists at salons.

The FDA Warns: AHAs Can Cause Skin Irritation

By 1997, The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had processed about 100 reports of adverse effects with AHAs ranging from minor irritation and stinging to serious blistering and burns. The FDA advises you to test any product that contains an AHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area. If you experience skin irritation or continued stinging, you should stop using the product and ask your physician.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel of the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association concluded in December 1996 that AHAs are "safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations less than or equal to 10 percent, at final solution acidities greater than or equal to 3.5, when formulated to avoid elevating the skin's sensitivity to the sun, or when directions for use include the continual use of sun protection". For salon use products, the panel said that the products are "safe for use at concentrations less than or equal to 30 percent, at final formulation acidities greater than or equal to 3.0, in products made for brief, sporadic use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when use is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection."

Are Beta Hydroxy Acids Better?

BHAs include salicylic and citric acid. Some research shows that BHAs, specially salicylic acid, may be more effective in exfoliating the lower dermal skin layers and may be less irritating. Synthetic salicylic acid has long been in dermatology for treating acne lesions and eliminating imperfections on feet. Salicylic acid is lipid soluble and hence penetrates the fatty sebum made by sebaceous glands, destroys acne causing microbes, and reduces the blocking of infected pores.